Coromandel
There's good reason why Kiwis flock to Coromandel (Te Tara-o-te-Ika a Māui, Te Paeroa-a-Toi) for the holidays.
Matching its laid-back vibe, the peninsula on the east coast of the North Island offers more than 400 kilometres of coastline dotted with white and golden sand beaches. Its most popular include a geothermal stretch where visitors can dig their own hot pool right in the sand and a secluded cove with a huge natural arch for postcard-worthy photos.
There's no shortage of exceptional walks either, from one of the country's most popular overnight treks to a winding gorge through historic gold mining country. Elsewhere, you'll find cute small towns, romantic thermal springs and luxury retreats nestled in the bush.
See & Do
Dig your own hot pool in the sand, visit a water-powered theme park, or unwind at an adults-only spa.
The beach warmer than bathwater
On the eastern side of the Coromandel Peninsula, about 12km south of Whitianga, is a beach that people flock to in order to ignore the sea. There's breaking surf, picturesque rocks and a long sandy beach, but the big drawcard here are the hot springs bubbling up through the sand at a temperature of around 64 degrees. Visitors to Hot Water Beach get the fun and satisfaction of not only digging their own bath in the sand, but the continuous challenge of maintaining a comfortable temperature. Read more
Whitianga's romatic spa escape
The Lost Spring is a little jungle oasis set on more than a hectare of lush bush in Whitianga. And best of all — this retreat is designed for adults. We're talking cocktails served in the pools, private nooks nestled in the bush and treehouse 'massage bures' — set up with his and hers massage tables. Founder Alan Hopping designed the resort around the concept of a 'jungle spa' — and with caves, swing bridges and a bush track linking the pools — he's certainly created something that lived up to his ambition. Read more
A picture-perfect patch of sand
From Hahei, it’s a stunning hour-and-a-half return walk along the coastline down to Cathedral Cove/Te Whanganui-A-Hei. As you emerge on the beach, stunning sea cliffs greet you, as well as the most perfect arch framing the stunning beach and Te Hoho, a dramatic limestone pinnacle. Beautiful pōhutukawa trees linger above on the cliffs, and it’s the perfect spot for a day trip and a swim. From the northern end of Hahei Beach to Cook Bluff Scenic Reserve is a marine reserve. And it’s never been a better time to visit. Read more
Splashing good fun
Scattered around two hectares of native bush along the Waiau River, The Waterworks is a collection of quirky and crazy water-powered contraptions that are heaps of fun for everyone to watch and, even better, to operate. Who wouldn't want to listen to a tune played on old knives by a perforated oil drum spurting water? Or watch a skeletal metal man endlessly ride a bike in a pond? Or have a mini boat-race, or turn handles to operate a squirt gun that, if you're energetic enough, might sprinkle a real live chicken? There's a lot of squirting to be done here, lots of it competitive, all of it thoroughly wetting. Read more
Walk or cycle a historic gorge
The winding Ohinemuri River cuts through between the Coromandel and Kaimai Ranges, forming a narrow, steeply-sided gorge that's followed by SH2 as it links Paeroa with Waihī. The East Coast Main Trunk Railway used to run through this way too, over three bridges and through a kilometre-long tunnel; but now the line has been converted to the Hauraki Rail Trail. You can hike, or cycle, the whole length of the Karangahake Gorge, or just do a taster. As well as bush, river, glowworms and waterfalls, there's a lot of history here. Read more
Holiday like a celebrity in the peninsula
With its world-class beaches and laid-back vibes, it’s no wonder Coromandel is such a popular escape for many of New Zealand’s more famous faces. TV stars, radio hosts, singers – you’ll spot all kinds of Kiwi celebs spending their holidays here. When asked to share what they love about Coromandel, and their favourite spots, we uncovered hidden gem beaches, must-visit pizzerias, and campgrounds to beat all other campgrounds. Read more
THE BEST WALKS IN COROMANDEL
Mount Paku
Requiring far less effort than the trek to the top of Mt Maunganui, this 15-minute hike up this Tairua peak offers similarly outstanding views. Once a volcanic island, Mt Paku is now connected to the mainland via a sandspit, forming the northern head of Tairua’s harbour. It’s a fairly steep climb through lush native bush to the top, but you’ll be glad you made the effort when you have Tairua, Pauanui’s long white-sand surf beach, the pale blue harbour, and distant Aldermen Islands laid out before you.
Wentworth Falls
An unsealed road south of Whangamatā leads to a hidden valley home to an idyllic Department of Conservation campsite complete with babbling brook. The 3km track from the campsite climbs gently through native bush to the double waterfall – one 20-metre drop gushing down to another of equal height to create a pretty bridal veil effect. From the lower lookout, a steeper track leads to a basin above the falls.
Coromandel Coastal Walkway
You can start this 10km (one-way) walk along the northernmost tip of the Coromandel Peninsula at either Fletcher or Stony Bay, both beautiful examples of the untouched remote beaches that characterise the area. From Fletcher Bay, the track climbs through farmland and crosses a headland with sweeping coastal views before descending steeply to Poley Bay – a serene spot for a breather. After the short and steep climb out of the bay, the track is relatively gentle in gradient as it passes through native bush framing snapshots of sacred Mt Moehau and Great Barrier (Aotea) and Cuvier (Repanga) islands.
Waihī to Orokawa and Homunga Bays
Cooling off under a waterfall that cascades onto a pōhutukawa-hugged white sand beach so secluded it’s often empty even in the height of summer is the reward from completing the two- to three-hour trek from Waihī Beach to Homunga Bay. Starting at the northern end of Waihī Beach, follow the popular coastal track through kauri, pūriri, nīkau palms and pōhutukawa to Orokawa Bay. From here, it’s about another 90 minutes to Homunga Bay along a track that continues to impress with its coastal views.
Hike to NZ's most popular hut
This popular tramp has it all for a weekend’s achievement: a decent walk through bush, waterfalls, and some moderately challenging climbing, all with the reward of long views plus, if you time it right, some spectacular sunrise/sunset action. The Pinnacles rise out of the surrounding bush to a height of 759 metres, from where you get a glorious 360-degree view from coast to coast and over the sea and Hauraki Plains. The return trip will take about eight hours, but the best option is to stay overnight near the summit in the Department of Conservation hut. Read more
Brilliant ways to get out on the water
With more than 400 kilometres of coastline and over 100 offshore islands, Coromandel is a watery playground overflowing with opportunities. From Cook Bluff to the northern end of Hahei Beach lies the Te Whanganui-A-Hei marine reserve, where snorkelers and swimmers can catch a glimpse of sea life up close. The waters beneath Aldermen and Mercury Islands reveal even more underwater experiences. In between, there are plenty of ways to get out and about on the water, from fishing charters and surfing lessons to glass-bottom boats and a thrilling banana ride to the region’s most popular attraction. Read more
Insider tip: In the Te Whanganui-A-Hei marine reserve, Gemstone Bay has its own snorkel trail including information buoys equipped with handles and information panels detailing marine life.
Paeroa's soft drink selfie-magnet
Towering overhead at around seven metres high, Paeroa's iconic brown bottle with its bold yellow label is solidly made from concrete rings and was intended as a feature for promoting the town. It has performed this function splendidly well and must have been photographed millions of times since it was built back in 1969. It now stands, in a curve of lemon trees, in Ohinemuri Reserve. Although there’s a lot more to this town than the famous L&P bottle, it’s an obligatory stop for every visitor. Read more
Hidden Gems
Dive beneath Coromandel's skyscraper islands, ride a mountain railway, and hop between breathtaking beaches.
The hidden lagoon accessible by kayak
Whenuakura is an outwardly ordinary-looking little island, one of a small cluster just off the coast of Whangamatā – but it hides a delightful secret. What appears to be a solid, steep-sided lump of rock less than a kilometre offshore, topped by a velvety blanket of vegetation, is actually a collapsed volcanic blow hole in the form of a ring. Conveniently, there is a dark, echoing, 12-metre-high tunnel on one side, which allows kayakers to slip through into a tiny open-air lagoon. The water is turquoise and clear, you can see right to the bottom, and hear the birdsong as you bob quietly on your kayak. Read more
Coromandel's secret summer roadie
Those of us who have been lucky enough to spend a summer in Coromandel know the winding coastal roads are often jammed with traffic. But there is a mysterious road that crosses the spiny backbone of the Coromandel Peninsula that few people know about. It's simply called 309 Road, and it's 21 kilometres of fascinating scenery that links Coromandel Town to Whitianga crossing the jungle-like hinterland of Coromandel Peninsula. The road is seriously bendy and in places very narrow. Read more
Insider tip: The Ride Coromandel Bike Park is a free network of trails, jumps and pump tracks for cyclists just outside Coromandel Town.
The world-class dive spot you've never heard of
About an hour’s boat ride from Whitianga lies a collection of volcanic islands which are home to a vast collection of marine species. Unless you’re a scuba diver, there’s a good chance you might not know about the Aldermen Islands (Ruamaahu), let alone what lies beneath. The waters surrounding these ocean skyscrapers are protected from run-off from the mainland, resulting in excellent clarity. Dive Zone Whitianga runs trips out on its 12-metre dive vessel. On the journey you'll pass the famous Cathedral Cove and Gemstone Bay before venturing below to see blue maomao, eagle rays and curious damselfish. Read more
More than just a gateway town
An hour-and-a-half south-east of Auckland, Thames for many is a town to go through on the way to somewhere on the Coromandel Peninsula. Formed in 1873 with the amalgamation of the gold mining towns of Shortland and Grahamstown, in the late 1800s, it was New Zealand’s second-largest city. It’s home to a whole lot of gold mining history and architecture from that era. There’s plenty to do to fill in several days. If, you stay for under 24 hours, make sure it’s on a Saturday or Sunday, when most of Thames’ gold mining attractions are open. Read more
Coromandel's beautiful Garden of Eden
Around 20 minutes from Thames, you'll find a 64-acre Garden of Eden that has been decades in the making. The magnificent Rapaura Watergardens has an enchanting walk that passes a vast lake of water lilies, then weaves up through lush native forest to a waterfall known as the ‘The Seven Stairs to Heaven'. Take a picnic lunch and lose track of time in this pristine wilderness. Best of all, there's no cellphone reception – so here, the only thing to connect with is nature. Read more
Karangahake Gorge is accessible via a range of walks. BROOK SABIN
Karangahake Gorge is accessible via a range of walks. BROOK SABIN
Pottery lessons are another feature at Driving Creek. BROOK SABIN
Pottery lessons are another feature at Driving Creek. BROOK SABIN
Pools at The Lost Spring range from 30 to 41 degrees. BROOK SABIN
Pools at The Lost Spring range from 30 to 41 degrees. BROOK SABIN
Owharoa Falls is a staircase waterfall in Karangahake Gorge. BROOK SABIN
Owharoa Falls is a staircase waterfall in Karangahake Gorge. BROOK SABIN
The North Island's most underrated town
Have you ever driven right through Paeroa? State Highway 2 runs right through the centre of the small town out the outskirts of Coromandel, and thousands of people just keep going. Have a good look around and you'll find spectacular short walks through old gold mining tunnels, inventive food creations with an L&P twist, and cafés that would rival the best in our big cities. Read more
A date with the seabirds
Tucked near the bottom of the Firth of Thames are more than 8000 hectares of inter-tidal flats that are prime real estate for many species of shorebird. While you can see flocks of bar-tailed godwits on inter-tidal flats elsewhere around the country, at Miranda the gatherings are exceptionally big. Here you will see not just many thousands of them, but such a wide variety of other species too that the Shorebird Centre is a magnet for both dedicated twitchers, and anyone open to be awed by bird numbers, diversity and sheer tenacity. Read more
A Kiwi-made mountain railway
Just three kilometres north of Coromandel Town, set into lush regenerating native bush is New Zealand's only mountain railway and its steepest track climbing up to a lookout 173 metres above sea level. Driving Creek was hand-built by famous potter and painter Barry Brickell, and zigzags its way up the hillside on a narrow-gauge track through three tunnels, over five viaducts and bridges, around two spirals, along five switchbacks and past a churning water wheel. Read more
Insider tip: Goldfields Railway is a heritage train journey between Waihī and Waikino in the Karangahake Gorge. Take the one-way trip and then cycle back for only $2.
New Zealand's little slice of Bali
The golden shores of Waihī Beach, and its relaxed seaside village, are just a few hours from Auckland. The town’s main nine-kilometre surf beach feels like Mt Maunganui 30 years ago – it’s beautiful, never too busy, and has a relaxed friendly atmosphere. You'll also find a scenic coastal walk at the northern end of the beach; in just 45 minutes you'll reach the splendid isolation of Orokawa Bay. Once you’re done in the water, head to the beachfront Flatwhite Cafe; the food is as good as the atmosphere. Read more
The little museum packed full of exhibits
Whitianga's Mercury Bay Museum is housed in an old dairy factory, but the site was first used as a cemetery by the local Ngāti Hei iwi. It is also linked with the sinking of HMS Buffalo in 1840. In the museum you’ll learn all about this ship’s colourful story and its tragic end, along with more local history. It’s all here: Māori exploration and settlement, Kupe and Captain Cook, the trade in kauri timber and gum, farming and fishing, the role of women in the pioneer days, and why it’s called Mercury Bay. Read more
COROMANDEL, BEACH PARADISE
Hahei Beach
This is about as postcard-perfect as it gets. There are pōhutukawa trees right down to the sand and the water is so clear you can see your feet. It's also the perfect place to stay if you want to walk over to Cathedral Cove, and you definitely should do. The walk is about 90 minutes return, but take lunch and stay the day. Almost too beautiful to be real.
New Chums Beach/Wainuiototo Bay
Like all good things, you have to work for it – in this instance via a 30-minute walk from Whangapoua village. The reward is a wide, sweeping curve of golden sand fringed by clay cliffs, blooming pōhutukawa and lush nīkau groves. It can get very popular but walk five minutes further down the beach, and it feels as if the entire bay is your own.
Waitete Bay
This tiny bay is best-suited to those who like sunbathing away from the masses. Found on the west coast of the Coromandel Peninsula, it dishes up low-key waves and a tidal outcrop for rock hopping. The closest shop is miles away, so it’s not unusual to have the cute patch of sand to yourself.
Onemana Beach
It's a small, contained piece of coastline, which can feel like your very own private beach on a quiet day. For the kids, there is a handy café and dairy, and a pirate playground.
Ōpito Bay
Another long, sandy bay to explore is this little gem. Ōpito Bay, which looks out towards the Mercury Islands, is fantastic for fishing and swimming, or just plonking down for a picnic. To get the best views, head up the 196 steps to the pā site at the top of the Ōpito Point Historic Reserve.
Whangamatā Beach
Considered a surfing mecca, the beach at Whangamatā is perfectly safe for swimming, but also boasts one of the best breaks in the country — the world-class Whangamatā Bar. The legendary left-hand break attracts surfers from all over the globe. It's also perfect for those wanting a flop 'n' drop holiday, with miles of pristine white sand to lie on.
Eat & Drink
Sip on ice-cool craft beer, sample award-winning organic cheese, and start your day with brunch right by the ocean.
Getting crafty in Coromandel
Hop to it and head out on a craft beer crawl of the Coromandel Peninsula. In Kūaotunu, nano-brewery Blue Fridge pours hoppy pale ale and refreshing seasonal releases out of Luke's Kitchen. Coromandel Brewing Company's The Pour House in Hahei is the spot to enjoy pizza with house-brewed Czech-style pilsner, spiced apple cider or a tasting flight. Hot Water Brewing's taproom is tucked away near the entrance to the Seabreeze Holiday Park at Whenuakite. Their ‘Kauri Falls’ pale ale is one of their most popular beers, but other approachable drops include the lager and IPA. Read more
A unique take on battered fish
Dining oceanside at Whitianga’s Stoked restaurant you can't miss the seafood meals. The restaurant has a strong focus on local produce and suppliers, while guests can enjoy dining in a relaxed seaside setting. The green-lipped mussels are incredible, served in drinkable Thai coconut sauce, but the fish and chips will really blow you away. The fish of the day comes encased in the lightest, most delightful batter — crispy not crunchy, not in the slightest bit greasy, and light in both colour and in texture. The secret is a simple gluten-free recipe. Read more
The frozen treat to feed a family
What does $9 of ice cream buy you? Well, in Auckland, if you waltz into a glitzy gelateria, you'll probably get a single scoop for $9. Just a few hundred kilometres away, on a remote part of the Coromandel Peninsula, you'll find the tiny town of Kūaotunu. Here, you get ten balls of ice cream on a double cone for $9 – it’s called the Kūaotunu Killer and it's enough to feed a family. You get to pick five different flavours, but the biggest challenge is devouring it all before the Coromandel sun does. Read more
Where to have a sundae session
Ice cream and coastal regions are a natural pairing. It’s only logical in summer when something sweet and cooling is the perfect tonic for ever-rising temperatures — although Kiwis will happily indulge any time of the year. There are some great parlours to get your fix in Coromandel. Little 'Lato's outpost in Hahei scoops creative flavours like peanut butter chocolate and mango lassi, while All Things Organic is your go-to for real fruit ice cream. Read more
Paeroa's perfect pies
Paeroa is, of course, best known for being the birthplace of L&P. However, there's a new kid on the block that is stealing a bit of attention. Providence Pantry has just opened on the town's main street, and it's run by chef Rensha Bouwer who was recently in charge of the kitchen at popular Waiheke vineyard restaurant Casita Miro. The pies here are overflowing with flavour. The mince and cheese is the hot favourite, and the chicken and bacon is also unmissable. Read more
First-class spots for brunch
Kick off your day with a hearty brunch in the Coromandel Peninsula's best cafés. There's definitely a hint of Australia's second-largest city in the cosmopolitan décor of the spacious Cafe Melbourne in Thames' historic Grahamstown district. The cilbir (Turkish eggs) at Wharf Road Cafe in Coromandel Town are a great way to start the day, and a popular brunch favourite at the versatile Port Road Project in Whangamatā is the pytti panna, a Swedish-style breakfast fry-up. Read more
Onion rings made with fizzy drink
Paeroa is best known as the spot where Lemon and Paeroa (today known as L&P) was created in 1907. The small town is having something of an L&P revival, but this time, it's in food. There’s still an L&P Cafe in town where you can try heaps of crazy creations. How about eggs benedict with L&P hollandaise, L&P flavoured pork ribs, or L&P chicken salad? The L&P onion rings are another oddball pairing — they're crunchy, salty and sweet. Read more
Must-try foodie experiences
Homegrown and hand-crafted goods reign supreme in the Coromandel. Cathedral Cove Macadamias is where visitors can take a self-guided orchard tour and stock up on dark chocolate coated macadamias, nut butter and honey; The Cheese Barn is a certified organic and award-winning cheese shop and café in Matatoki; plus Coromandel Distilling Company is an experimental micro-distillery with creations ranging from an electric blue dry gin to an Old Tom-style drop aged in mānuka. Read more
Stay
Stay in an off-grid bush escape, sleep in an immaculate forest lodge, or book out an entire private island paradise.
A tiny house bush escape
Serenity Retreat has is everything you need in a tiny house. Set in its own valley, nestled against a hillside of native bush, it's perhaps best described as an off-grid Art Deco Lego house — there's just solar power for lights and to charge your phone. With a boardwalk bridge to the entrance, it almost feels like a tiny tree house. The retreat is set on an 80-acre lifestyle block near Tairua, just two-hours from Auckland. Inside the main hut, owners Andie and Chris Lusby managed to pack three different levels into the small space, including a downstairs lounge and a loft bedroom. Read more
The secret relaxation retreat
Just outside Whitianga, the immaculate Wairua Lodge is a striking contrast to the thick bush surrounding it. There are four main cabins, alongside a two-bedroom apartment. All have a distinctly Swiss-style, with wooden ceilings and walls, plush beds, and a modern bathroom. While the rooms are beautiful, what makes Wairua exceptional is what you’ll find outside your front door. Spend your day exploring walking tracks that meander through the bush. Along the way are clearings with hammocks and chairs to relax in next to the stream or waterholes. You can book an hour slot in a treehouse bath, which will be ready with candles burning and a playlist of love songs. Read more
An affordable centre for inner (and world) peace
You’ll certainly get more than an inkling of what harmonious living is like at the Mahamudra Centre for Universal Unity in the tiny town of Colville. Founded by locals Roy Fraser and Sally Barraud with the help of their Tibetan Buddhist teacher, the retreat centre welcomes anyone looking for some time out from their regular routines, irrespective of religion. Join one of the many retreats on offer, stay in the simple but comfy rooms and cabins, take part in guided meditation, or simply stroll around the sprawling gardens with their statues and Tibetan stupa. And rooms start from $60 a night.
Read more
For a slice of luxury
You don't have to look far for a comfortable place to sleep in Coromandel. At Mercury Ridge, a Mediterranean-style villa, the views extend from Cooks Beach to Mercury Bay. There are luxury suites, an orchard, vineyard and nature reserve. The Falls Retreat is a luxury retreat at the base of the Karangahake Gorge where three cute cabins are nestled in native bush. Owner/chef Brad King will whip you up a delicious pizza, roast and grazing plate at the onsite restaurant. Read more
A private off-grid container home
Ahurewa Eco Retreat is nestled in the Mahakirau Forest Estate, which is a gated private eco-sanctuary home to some of the country's rarest creatures. Most of the 600-hectare property is protected land, although there are a few private homes dotted around. The estate is bordered by the Manaia Kauri Sanctuary and the Coromandel State Forest, an enormous 72,000ha reserve encompassing most of the Coromandel's ancient hinterland. Inside, the colourful house has an impressive library and large kitchen – although the bedroom is the highlight, with large windows and views stretching as far as the eye can see. Read more
New Zealand's private island paradise
New Zealand has a private island paradise where the water is so clear it's like a little slice of the Maldives. And if you get 13 friends together — the Slipper Island Resort is yours for just over $120 each, per night. That includes a beachside glamping tent, a safari tent, two chalets, and a pig that really likes cuddles. It's one of the country's few private islands – sitting a 15-minute water taxi ride from Tairua in the Coromandel. Read more
THREE MORE SECLUDED ESCAPES
Coromandel Luxury Escapes
Tucked away on the edge of Matarangi Harbour is a glamping escape with an emphasis on romantic luxury. This secluded tent sits on the edge of a farm, with views of the harbour and Coromandel Ranges. The main safari-style tent has a plush bed with a fan to keep you cool in summer. A detached cabin is home to the bathroom, complete with a luxury freestanding bath overlooking the harbour. There's also a large firepit for toasting marshmallows under the stars and no shortage of beaches nearby for those hot summer days.
Extra Mile Glamping
This new Waikawau retreat has sweeping views of the coast and is surrounded by native bush. The site is almost like a miniature glamping village, with two tents sharing a kitchen, dining area, bathroom and outdoor bath. You have the option of having just one tent, or paying a little extra to include the other tent, adding another two people. That makes it the perfect escape for two couples wanting a weekend away. But being isolated won’t mean you’re bored, with two picturesque beaches nearby and a multitude of walks.
The Bubble Tent
If you want to escape with your bubble buddy, you can quite literally spend the night in one. Mercury Bay Estate is a vineyard near Cooks Beach that specialises in Pinot Noir. Nestled among the vines you’ll find a transparent bubble tent ideal for stargazing with your significant other. The tent works with the help of a turbine that keeps the air fresh inside. During the summer months, the tent does get hot during the day. However, you’re only a short walk from a “rustic hut” which is yours for the duration of the stay. This has a large deck overlooking the vines where you can also unwind with a book and glass of wine.
Wairau Lodge's star spa is available for hour-long bookings. BROOK SABIN
Wairau Lodge's star spa is available for hour-long bookings. BROOK SABIN
Sleep right next to the beach at Slipper Island Resort. BROOK SABIN
Sleep right next to the beach at Slipper Island Resort. BROOK SABIN
Make your own s'mores by the firepit at Wairau Lodge. BROOK SABIN
Make your own s'mores by the firepit at Wairau Lodge. BROOK SABIN
You won't see another soul at Ahurewa. BROOK SABIN
You won't see another soul at Ahurewa. BROOK SABIN
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Hauraki Rail Trail. SUPPLIED
Visuals: Brook Sabin
Words: Brook Sabin, Stephen Heard, Siobhan Downes, Juliette Sivertsen, Lorna Thornber, Alan Granville, Pamela Wade, Sharon Stephenson, Brett Atkinson, Alexia Santamaria, Eleanor Hughes
Editors: Stephen Heard, Trupti Biradar
Stuff Travel's Go To Guides are created in partnership with Tourism New Zealand