Birds are a big thing in Oman’s Musandam Peninsula. As you walk along, it’s not unusual to catch sight of the flick of a sapphire-blue tail, the glimpse of scarlet-red feathers cloaked by a wing or the pop of banana-yellow on a crooked beak. It’s as if the sky has reacted in rainbow protest to the dusty beige of Oman’s landscape. Here, you wake up to a cacophony of twittering and cooing: Indian Rollers, Bulbuls and Sunbirds forming a dawn chorus.
Six Senses Zighy Bay is framed by the Hajar Mountains on one side and the icy-blue waters of the ... [+]
Framed by the Hajar Mountains on one side and the icy-blue waters of the Musandam Fjords on the other, this enclave belonging to Oman, found on the northern tip of the Arabian peninsula, is geographically set apart from the rest of the country (it is separated from the rest of Oman by the United Arab Emirates). Known as the Norway of the Middle East, and best accessible by four-wheel drive from Dubai, the remote location at times looks lunar, with its barren landscape dotted with flighty goats and hardy Ghaf trees; other times, you can imagine yourself to be in a Polar region, with its glacier-like coastline.
Looking down on Zioghy Bay.
When it comes to tourism, compared to other Middle Eastern ‘big-hitters’ (such as Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Qatar), Oman has managed to remain relatively ‘under the radar’, escaping the hoards of tourists who are attracted to the ‘bright lights, big city’ mentality that other Emirates in the region offer and giving it more of an ‘adventurer’ appeal.
Josh Peacock, regional destination manager, at luxury tour operator, Scott Dunn says that it is this exact quality that is its allure. “Oman’s allure is absolutely about authenticity, away from the more manufactured neighbour of Dubai. Dramatic landscapes combined with Arabian waters and plenty of culture have seen a rise in interest in the destination.”
Tristan Williams, Middle East resorts specialist at the company, agrees: “In a region currently negotiating renewed uncertainty, Oman is once again the shining haven of stability, security and unwavering beauty, which so many seek. The destination has stayed true to itself, reflecting the very best of everything this incredible part of the world has to offer, from both a cultural and natural perspective. Whether it’s the striking the mountains, turquoise waters, fascinating cities and hotels to match… it has it all.”
The fjords of Musandam
Proving that the country could soon be the next hotspot in the region, there is a line-up of new hotel brands due to open their doors. First up is Mandarin Oriental Muscat, located in the beachfront town of Shatti Al-Qurum, and on target to open by the summer. Nikki Beach Resort and Spa is also due to open by the end of the year, with its resort found on Yiti Bay (30 minutes from Muscat airport) and overlooking the Gulf of Oman. Also due to open in 2024 is the St Regis Al Mouj Muscat, found on an 18-hole Al Mouj Muscat golf course. It will boast a Guerlain spa and have a culinary focus, with outposts of Coya, Hakkasan and Dubai-based Italian restaurant Roberto’s.
The welcome entrance to Six Senses Zighy Bay.
Presiding over Musandam, however, is one of the original hotels to put down roots in the country: Six Senses Zighy Bay, which opened its doors in 2008. It’s a two-and-a-half hour drive to reach it from Dubai, passing through the Khasab border crossing, as you briefly enter the United Arab Emirates. You’ll pass through tiny towns, such as Dibba, where time looks like it has stood still. Shops display old-fashioned and literal signage, sometimes clumsily translated into English: ‘Clipping and Cutting of Men’s Hair’; ‘Washing and Polishing of Motor Vehicles’.
Soon, the mountains take over, and it’s as though you are squeezing your way through their barren peaks to reach the tip of the peninsula where Zighy Bay is found. Your first sight of the resort is from a dramatic, high point before you descend to its beachfront location. Famously, you can elect to tandem-paraglide into the Six Senses property from this spot, which is perhaps the most spectacular way to say you have arrived for check-in at any hotel.
Inside one of the villas with its traditional features.
Low-rise, and carved out of natural stone, the resort’s 82 villas blend into the landscape so you can barely see it is there. It is a nod to the resort’s strong sustainable values that are woven throughout its whole ethos. Initiatives include a seawater well, which means the resort can filter seawater for use within the resort (and for use in one of its pools); an earth lab where glass is recycled; a lush, organic kitchen garden which supplies the five restaurants and the creation of a protected marine area to safeguard the unique eco-system found here.
“Our main focus when it comes to our operations are plastic free, zero waste, energy conservation and organic farming,” says Six Senses about Zighy Bay. “In total, 80 per cent of our organic and glass waste is recycled or upcycled on site, more than 80 per cent of all single-use plastic has been removed, and 30 per cent of the resort’s energy was saved in 2022 compared to our baseline year.”
For adrenalin junkies, you can paraglide into the resort.
Designed to replicate a typical Omani village, each villa is separated by winding, sandy paths, dotted with an abundance of neem, lemon and date palm trees. Once inside, rough-hewn stucco walls, stone floors and ceilings made of date palm sticks give a tropical-rustic feel. Each comes with a private plunge pool and there are outdoor showers and traditional shady majils (seating areas) to take in the views. Naturalmat beds are deep and cosy and are lined with fine, unbleached cotton sheets topped with ergonomic pillows (there is a choice for total bedtime indulgence). Character is added with heavy, dark wood doors, as if you are entering your own mini castle, pops of colour with burnt orange cushions and tactile, handcrafted lighting.
The resort is rooted in Omani culture.
Once you’ve settled in, this is the sort of place where you’ll kick off your shoes and pad along barefoot to one of the pools; or maybe you’ll hop on your own bicycle to explore the sandy pathways (the hotel’s attention to detail even extends to the bikes’ pedals, which are padded so you don’t even have to wear shoes to cycle). As well as an infinity pool and a saltwater pool, (check out the ice-cream cart for instant cooling-down opportunities), you can try your hand at a line-up of activities, such as mountain biking, scuba diving or, perhaps, a flight in a microlight aircraft. At the Earth Lab, you can book in for candle-making, soap-making and glass crafting.
Sense on the Edge is one of the culinary highlights.
Dining at Zighy Bay is a highlight with five restaurants offering a variety of cuisines, but all ofrering thoughtful (and delicious) references to the destination. Spice Market serves up a huge breakfast feast and in the evenings turns its hand to traditional Arabic barbecues and dishes influenced by the ‘Spice Trail’. Mezzeria offers a fusion of Italian and shawarma dishes; while Summer House is the perfect spot for casual lunches overlooking the beach (think: sushi, wellness bowls and freshly-baked flatbreads and dips). A must is the Shua Shack’s traditional Bedouin dining, which features mezze dishes and slow-cooked lamb prepared in an authentic Shua underground oven. For something spectacular, Sense on the Edge, offers fine dining at a clifftop venue, some 950 feet above the sea, and sees you dine overlooking the resort and the coast below. As the sun dips, the outdoor restaurant is lit by candlelight and lanterns giving it an ethereal feel. For special occasions, book one of the Starlight or Moonlight tables, which are found on their own private terraces.
The organic garden provides ingredients for the restaurants.
Another integral part of Six Senses Zighy Bay’s culture is its work with local communities and schools and the encouragement of guests to get out and explore the local area with a collection of trips and experiences. One initiative is its support of the local Dibba Women Association and guests can meet some of the local women, purchase their handmade craft items, hear traditional Omani music, taste Omani sweets and share aromatic coffee with them, as well as take part in henna painting. All proceeds go towards helping to fund their infrastructure development projects, including nurseries and schools.
The Dhahab sunset cruise.
Despite the amount of things to do and see, time seems to pass slowly here. The remote spot oozes a holistic feel, whether you’ve found a little piece of zen with the sunrise yoga or nodded off at the hands of the exceptional therapists found at the Six Senses Spa. Of course, this being Six Senses, the spa is a signature highlight of the property, with many of its treatments designed to root you in Oman, due to the local ingredients that they use, such as frankincense, honey and rosewater.
The resort is like its own mini oasis.
Not to be missed is a sunset cruise on Dhahab, the resort’s traditional dhow boat, which has been made specially for the hotel and fitted out as a modern, luxury cruiser. As you sail the Musandam fjords, you pass tiny fishing villages perched on the cliffs and can anchor in secluded coves. For those wanting to dive or scuba, the waters are famous for their brightly coloured corals. While on the mountains, this is one of the only areas of the world where the earth’s mantle has broken through, with green ophiolites, part of the earth’s crust, visible to the eye.
When you return to the resort, low-level lighting (to combat light pollution) gives it a tranquil, hideaway feel. As the lights are dimmed on earth, above you, the stars are switching. Look up, it’s a wonder to behold.
From Zighy Bay, you can dive into the Musandam area.
Scott Dunn offers seven nights at Six Senses Zighy Bay, Oman, from £8,500, based on a couple sharing on a half-board basis, including return flights from London and private transfers. scottdunn.com
