The inside guide to Christchurch, New Zealand's southern belle

Framed by the Pacific to the east and the snowy Southern Alps to the west, Christchurch (or Ōtautahi in Māori) is the largest city on New Zealand’s South Island and nicknamed the Garden City for its green spaces. While it’s known internationally for the series of earthquakes that rocked its foundations over a decade ago, gone are the days of a city rising from the rubble. Now, it’s known as much for innovation as it is for its beauty.

Start with a coffee at chemistry-themed Bunsen, based in the charming clocktower of the Christchurch Arts Centre — which in a previous life housed science university lecture halls. Once sufficiently caffeinated, meander through the centre to take your pick of the boutique galleries and retailers. 

A stop at The Fudge Cottage nearby is a must. It’s a central Christchurch institution, offering artisanal fudge based on a traditional family recipe: the raspberry and white chocolate and Baileys flavours have been local hits for over 20 years. Then visit the Fragranzi Artisan Perfume Studio, where you can create your own signature scent using fragrance bases such as tobacco, jasmine and strawberry candyfloss.

If you’re left feeling inspired, walk five minutes to the Botanic Gardens. Take in the pink and purple hydrangeas, which are in bloom around now, and enjoy the orange swathes of autumnal leaves. Next, stroll over to the Christchurch Art Gallery, partly for the design of the building itself. Constructed in 1998 and filled with works from the traditional to vividly contemporary, it has an impressive flowing glass facade inspired by the shape of the koru, the young frond of New Zealand’s native silver fern, and the path the Avon River takes through the city.

By now, it’s likely you’ll have worked up an appetite. It’s through food that you can really experience the city’s soul, so book a cultural food tour with Āmiki Tours to learn culinary secrets, get a crash course in Christchurch’s Māori heritage and learn some basic te reo Māori. Don’t miss the chance to try a ‘boeuf-nut’ — a doughnut that’s stuffed with braised beef — at Inati. 

On the edge of central Christchurch you’ll also find Gatherings, a restaurant known for sustainably caught seafood and local produce. The menu changes with the seasons, so what is on offer here is always a pleasant surprise, and the wine bar has an impressive collection of natural wines.

For something more eclectic, there’s the now legendary Mr Wolf, which pairs hot dogs with Champagne and caviar. Try a Big Bad Wolf with boerewors sausage and dill pickle, and for dessert pick up a cone of salted caramel ice cream from Rollickin Gelato nearby. 

Quirky Lyttelton on the Banks Peninsula is 20 minutes’ drive away, and a popular day trip. This port town, with its cafes, live music and excellent farmers’ market, is where many a musician has started their career. Pick of the venues is Wunderbar, which simultaneously claims to be the weirdest and coolest in New Zealand. Don’t be alarmed by the lampshade fashioned from dolls’ heads — the staff are some of the friendliest. 

From Lyttelton, you can drive to the French settlement of Akaroa, where blue, white and red flags flap in the breeze. Alternatively, take a 10-minute ferry to Diamond Harbour, a convenient gateway for hiking. If you’re lucky you might spot Hector’s dolphins, one of the smallest in the world. 

Stroll up the walkway from Diamond Harbour to the Stoddart Point Reserve, where walks range from coastal wanders to the more gruelling seven-hour return climb up Mount Herbert. Along the way, make sure you listen out for the calls of native birds, such as the moss-green, melodic korimako.

Like a local: Bryony Matthews’ top spots for live music

Bryony Matthews is a Christchurch-based musician. Her album We’re All The Same is out on 28 April. 

1. Flux 
In the Boxed Quarter, an arty inner-city neighbourhood, Flux is a welcoming venue for electronic music fans, with local and international artists alongside craft brews. 

2. Space Academy
This is a regular spot for music from local and touring bands, and is also home to Pizza Trap, with its inventive pizzas and beers on tap. It’s a winning combo. 

3. 12 Bar 
Originally known for blues, 12 Bar expanded its musical offering after the pandemic and caters to a diverse crowd. It’s next to Dark Room, which is now the city’s oldest music venue.