Inside Louis Vuitton's viral collaboration with Yayoi Kusama 

The Japanese artist gives an exclusive interview to Vogue India on her collaboration and longtime association with Louis Vuitton
Yayoi Kusama
vogue.in

Louis Vuitton has created a reputation for fostering artist collaborations that have been a successful series of hits one after the other. Their newest collaboration however, has enjoyed a viral moment with installations of the collaborating artist, Yayoi Kusama, showing up overnight near Louis Vuitton stores. If seen through the lens of creativity, Yayoi Kusama’s spot-covered beautiful anomalies—on unusually large pumpkins, tentacles, and hypnotic spotted surfaces—have a lot in common with Louis Vuitton, the luxury lover’s go-to name. On the surface, these two strong entities may seem to stand poles apart—one drenches its luggage in an emblematic fourpoint star and a quartet-petalled flower, while the other uses polka dots. But under these attractively packaged masterpieces, the goal for each has always been to create something infinite in its essence.

Yayoi Kusama

Kusama’s body of work references a new form of minimalism, an idea that is ingrained in the country’s subcultures. The philosophy behind creating these avant-garde installations, encrypted with Morse code-like symbolism, reveals more about the inner workings of the artist’s mind. “I used to live in poverty, not even having enough to eat, but now I am in the best time of my life because I am in an environment where I can devote myself to painting from morning to night,” answers Kusama when asked about her happiest moments.

All-over: The heritage French brand’s newest collaboration with Kusama explores its emblematic bags and other ephemera in a new light.

This dedication to her craft also demonstrates her penchant for the recurring expression of ‘Infinity’ in her work. The connection is clear with the heritage French brand, whose accessories have an evergreen quality and are eternally loved, resulting in visibility in the fashion strata for decades. Art has also consistently been a genre Louis Vuitton has explored over the years, fostering collaborations with artists such as Jeff Koons, Sol LeWitt, Richard Prince and Takashi Murakami, among others. So to have one of the most successful and wildly popular female artists right now is very well a prophesied success.

This is the second time Kusama has made Louis Vuitton’s beloved creations the canvas for her art. In 2012, she refashioned the Louis Vuitton trunk with her signature spots, laying the foundation for this burgeoning relationship. “During my last project, I received a great response from people all over the world. In this one too, I would like to share my artistic philosophy and thoughts with everyone,” says Kusama. Th is time around, she returns to the heritage brand’s ateliers to transform an entire range of items—from a line for womenswear and menswear to accessories and more.

Polka power: Spots knitted over suits and skirt sets, on metal hardware and accessories— Kusama’s artwork features in the collection through different variations.

Kusama’s artistic brilliance has also extended to fashion in the past. “I have been making my clothes since I was a teenager. I also ran a fashion company in the 1960s. At that time, fashion and art were two completely different genres, but I have never made a distinction between them. I don’t think of them as separate because that way I can explore new fields,” she explains. 

For Louis Vuitton, her floral patterns have been stippled in jacquard over men’s suits and embroidered over blouses, while they come embossed over men’s accessories like the Keepall. For women, the artwork takes over as the main attraction, with spots enlarged to cover the surfaces of Capucines and wrap skirts. Clothing, shoes and bags have all been enveloped into her universe with careful deliberation, where the spots are woven into 3D knits printed onto silks and embossed. Not to miss the little details, the spots proliferate on the soles of loafers as well as on the metal hardware—strong signatures of the brand that fit into their new versions with natural ease.

Credits:

Photos(Collection): Oliver Hadlee Pearch; Bobby Doherty (Still-Life)

Styled by: Carine Roitfeld

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